Electrical
Pool and spa equipotential bonding field guide (NEC 680)
Tie every conductive part in and around the water into one equipotential plane, bond the water, and get it inspected before the deck buries it.
Direct answer
Pool and spa equipotential bonding ties every conductive part in and around the water into one bonded plane so no voltage difference exists that a wet swimmer could feel. NEC Article 680.26 governs it, commonly using #8 AWG solid copper. Bonding equalizes potential and is not the same as grounding to earth; the adopted code edition and AHJ control.
Key takeaways
- NEC Article 680.26 governs pool and spa equipotential bonding, tying every conductive part around the water into one plane so a wet swimmer feels no voltage difference.
- The equipotential bonding grid and perimeter conductor are commonly #8 AWG solid copper; the perimeter is bonded to the shell or grid at a minimum of four evenly spaced points.
- Bond the shell steel, perimeter surface within 3 ft of the inside wall, metal fittings, pump motor and equipment, metal piping and conduit, and the water itself.
- Bond the pool water through a conductive surface in contact with it, commonly at least 9 sq in tied into the grid; plastic-plumbed pools need a listed water-bond fitting.
- Bonding equalizes potential and does not clear faults; the grid is not required to connect to a ground rod, and bonding must be inspected before the concrete deck is poured.
What pool bonding is, and why a wet body changes the math
Pool and spa equipotential bonding ties every conductive part in and around the water together so they all sit at the same electrical potential. The goal is plain. A swimmer standing in the water with one hand on a metal rail should never become the path between two points that sit at different voltages. Water lowers skin resistance, bare wet feet make solid contact with the deck, and at that point a fraction of a volt you would never notice on a dry day can drive enough current through a chest to stop a heart. Article 680 treats this as a life-safety system, not a finishing detail.
The idea is equalization, not drainage. You are not trying to send stray current off somewhere. You are making the shell, the deck, the ladder, the pump, the piping, and the water itself all rise and fall together, so there is no difference for a body to bridge. If everything moves together, there is nothing to feel.
This is separate from the building grounding electrode system and from the equipment grounding that clears faults. Those jobs are covered in the grounding electrode system guide and the grounding versus bonding guide, and the line between them is the thing most people get wrong at a pool. The bonding here is about equal potential at the water's edge, every conductive thing a wet person can reach held to one level.
What is the difference between bonding and grounding a pool?
Bonding and grounding do two different jobs at a pool, and confusing them is the most common and most dangerous mistake in the whole article. Bonding ties metal parts together so they share one potential. Grounding connects the system to earth and, through the equipment grounding conductors, gives fault current a path back to the source to trip the breaker. The equipotential bonding required around a pool is the first job, not the second.
A pool can be perfectly grounded and still hurt someone if it is not bonded. If the ladder sits at one potential and the wet deck at another, the swimmer who touches both becomes the connection, and the difference is too small to trip anything. Bonding removes that difference so there is nothing to feel in the first place. Grounding would only matter after current is already moving through a person, which is exactly the moment you are trying to prevent.
So the bonding grid equalizes; it does not clear. The equipment grounding conductors that come with the pump, the lights, and the panel still do the fault-clearing job, and they are required too. The #8 copper running around the pool is there to hold everything at the same potential. Treating it as a ground, or assuming the ground takes care of the bonding, is where installers go wrong. The grounding versus bonding guide covers the general principle. At a pool the stakes are higher because the victim is wet.
The equipotential bonding grid
The equipotential bonding grid is the conductive plane around the pool that everything else bonds to. Most of the time it is the pool's own steel. The reinforcing bar in a gunite or shotcrete shell, tied together at the intersections, forms a conductive shell that becomes the grid. Where there is no usable steel, the code recognizes a copper conductor grid built from solid bare copper, commonly #8 AWG, following the contour of the pool and the perimeter surface.
The 2020 and later editions allow both a single perimeter conductor and a copper grid option, and recent cycles have started recognizing copper-clad steel at the same minimum size, insulated, covered, or bare. The exact size, material, and arrangement shift between code cycles, so confirm what your adopted edition and AHJ accept before you order wire.
When a copper grid is used in place of steel, it is laid in a network on roughly 12 in by 12 in spacing with a few inches of tolerance, following the pool contour and extending out under the perimeter surface. The perimeter conductor that bonds the surface around the pool commonly sits 18 to 24 in back from the inside wall, at a depth the listing calls out. Verify that dimension against the adopted edition rather than from memory, because it has moved. Whatever form the grid takes, the perimeter is bonded to the shell or grid at a minimum of four points spaced evenly around the pool.
What must be bonded around a swimming pool?
NEC 680.26(B) lists the parts that have to be tied into the equipotential plane, and the list is longer than most people expect. The pool shell or its reinforcing steel, the perimeter surface within 3 ft of the inside wall, all metal fittings, the pool circulating equipment including the pump motor, metal piping and metal conduit in the zone, and the water itself all get bonded. Fixed metal parts like rails, ladders, diving stands, anchors, and metal coping are part of it.
There are real exemptions, and knowing them keeps you from chasing connections that the code does not want. Small isolated metal parts that are not over 4 in in any dimension and do not penetrate the pool structure more than 1 in do not need bonding. Reinforcing steel encapsulated in a nonconductive compound is not required to be bonded either, because it cannot act as a conductive shell. Past those, if it is metal and a swimmer can reach it or it sits in the bonded zone, plan to bond it.
Run the list against the actual pool, not a generic checklist. The slide ladder somebody added after the original build, the metal autofill housing, the handrail the mason set in the deck last week. Each is a conductive part in the splash zone, and each is the one that gets missed.
| Item | Bonding | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Pool shell / reinforcing steel | Serves as grid or bonds to it | Encapsulated nonconductive rebar is exempt |
| Perimeter surface (3 ft band) | Bonded grid or perimeter conductor | Paved deck, pavers, and unpaved ground |
| Metal fittings | Bonded | Ladders, rails, diving stands, anchors, coping |
| Pump motor and pool equipment | Bonded | Heater housing, cover motors, circulating gear |
| Metal piping and conduit | Bonded | Metal water and gas pipe in the zone |
| Pool water | Bonded | Min ~9 sq in conductive surface in contact |
| Small isolated metal | Exempt | Under 4 in any dimension, under 1 in penetration |
Bonding the rebar and the shell
On a gunite or shotcrete pool the reinforcing steel cage is the easiest and best grid you will get, and it has to be bonded before the concrete goes on. The tie wire that holds the cage together is usually enough to make the steel electrically continuous, but the code wants a deliberate bond, so a #8 solid copper conductor is clamped to the steel with a listed connector at the points the perimeter and the equipment will tie into.
The window for this is narrow. Once the gunite is shot and the deck is poured, the steel is buried and you cannot prove what got connected. The bond to the shell steel goes in during the steel stage, with the clamps visible and the copper run out to where the bonding points will land. This is the single connection that is impossible to fix after the fact without breaking concrete, so it gets done right the first time and it gets inspected before the pour.
Where the shell is fiberglass, vinyl liner, or another nonconductive build with no usable steel, there is no rebar grid to bond. That is when the copper conductor grid and the perimeter conductor carry the whole job, and the design has to account for the missing steel rather than assume it is there.
The 3 ft perimeter surface
The perimeter surface is the walking area right around the pool, and the code treats the band extending 3 ft horizontally beyond the inside walls as part of the equipotential plane. The reasoning is direct. A swimmer climbs out and stands on the deck with wet feet while still touching the water or a rail, so that deck has to sit at the same potential as everything else. The 3 ft figure covers paved surfaces, pavers, and unpaved ground alike.
On a poured deck, the perimeter is bonded either by the deck's own reinforcing steel or by a copper conductor following the pool contour about 18 to 24 in back from the wall and buried below the surface, tied to the shell or grid at a minimum of four evenly spaced points. Confirm the offset and depth against your adopted edition, because the perimeter-surface provisions have changed across recent cycles and the AHJ enforces the version they adopted.
The perimeter is also the part that gets skipped on the cheap job, because it is extra wire and extra labor that nobody sees once the deck is down. Skip it and the swimmer climbing out onto an unbonded deck is exactly the person the article was written to protect.
Do you have to bond the pool water?
Yes. The water itself is part of the equipotential plane, and recent editions of the code require it to be bonded through a conductive surface in contact with the water. The common figure is a minimum of about 9 sq in of conductive metal in contact with the water, tied into the bonding grid. The metal shell of an underwater light niche, a listed water-bond fitting plumbed into the circulation line, or a suitable metal fixture in contact with the water all satisfy it.
The point of the water bond is that the water can hold its own potential, and a swimmer is in it. If the water sits at a different level than the bonded shell and deck, the body in the water becomes the bridge. Bonding the water through a conductive contact pulls it onto the same plane as everything else.
This is the requirement most often missed on older pools and on pools with all-plastic plumbing, because there is no natural metal in contact with the water once the trade went to PVC. On a plastic-plumbed pool you add a listed water-bond fitting on purpose. Verify the surface-area figure and the requirement against the adopted edition, since the water bond is a relatively newer provision and not every jurisdiction is on the same cycle.
The bonding conductor and its connections
The bonding conductor for a pool is commonly #8 AWG solid copper, and the solid part matters. Solid copper stands up to direct burial and the corrosive environment around a pool better than stranded, holds a mechanical clamp without the strands spreading, and is what the perimeter and grid provisions are written around. Some equipment bonding within the system can be other sizes or stranded where the listing allows, but the equipotential grid and perimeter conductor are the solid #8 that the code calls out. Confirm the size against your adopted edition.
Every connection is made with a listed clamp or connector rated for the location, and that means listed for direct burial and for the metals being joined. A copper-to-copper clamp on a fitting, a listed bronze lug on a pump, a listed clamp on the rebar. The connection is the weak point in any bonding system, so it gets a fitting made for the job, not a hardware-store clamp that will corrode loose in a season.
Make the connections accessible where the code allows it, and where they are buried, make them with fittings rated to stay buried. A bonding system is only as good as its worst connection, and a green, crusty clamp under a deck is a connection that has already failed even if the copper looks fine on both sides.
Does the pool bonding grid connect to a ground rod?
No, and this is the misconception that drives bad installs. The equipotential bonding grid does not have to connect to a grounding electrode, a ground rod, the panel, or the service. Its job is to equalize potential among the conductive parts around the pool, and it does that by tying them together, not by reaching for earth. Driving a ground rod and calling the bonding done is a misunderstanding of what bonding is for.
The code is explicit that the bonding conductors are not required to extend to the panelboard, the service, or any grounding electrode. The equipotential plane stands on its own. The parts of the pool system that do need grounding, the pump motor, the lights, the panel, get their equipment grounding conductors the normal way, separate from the bonding grid, and those grounding conductors do connect back to the source.
So you can have a fully compliant equipotential bonding system that never touches a ground rod, and you can have a ground rod that does nothing for the bonding. Keep the two ideas separate. The grid equalizes. The grounding clears faults and references the system to earth. Running the bonding to a rod and stopping there leaves the actual equipotential job half done.
The pump motor: bonded and grounded both
The pool pump motor is one of the few places where bonding and grounding land on the same piece of equipment, and it has to satisfy both. The motor is bonded into the equipotential grid through its bonding lug, a provided terminal that the #8 copper lands on. The same motor is also grounded through the equipment grounding conductor in its supply circuit, which clears a fault and trips the breaker. Two conductors, two jobs, one motor.
New installers see the bonding lug and the equipment grounding terminal and assume one covers the other. It does not. The bonding lug ties the motor frame into the equipotential plane so it cannot sit at a different potential than the water and deck. The equipment grounding conductor carries fault current back to the source. Miss the bonding lug and the motor frame is outside the grid. Miss the equipment ground and a frame fault has no path to trip the breaker.
When a pump is swapped out, both connections get remade. The replacement motor often ships with the bonding lug in a different spot, and the easy miss is reconnecting the supply, including the equipment ground, while forgetting the bonding jumper that the old motor had. The frame goes back in service outside the equipotential plane and nobody notices until an inspection or an incident.
GFCI: the other half of the safety system
Bonding equalizes potential, but it does not stop a fault current from flowing if something energizes. That is the GFCI's job, and the two together are the pool safety system. Article 680 requires GFCI protection across the pool, and the common rule for pool pump motors is Class A GFCI protection for motors on branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground and 60 amperes or less, single or three phase. Underwater lighting circuits, receptacles near the pool, and other pool equipment fall under GFCI requirements as well.
Think of it as bonding equalizes, GFCI interrupts. If a frame faults, bonding keeps the surrounding parts at the same potential so a swimmer feels nothing, and the GFCI opens the circuit when it senses current leaking off the intended path. Either one alone is incomplete. A bonded pool with no GFCI and a GFCI-protected pool with no bonding are both gambling on the failure they did not cover.
Confirm which circuits require GFCI and at what ratings against the adopted edition, because the scope has expanded across recent cycles to pull in more pool equipment. The GFCI requirements are covered in detail by topic in the broader Article 680 rules; here the point is that bonding is one half of the system and GFCI is the other.
Receptacle and luminaire clearances
The wiring around a pool is held back from the water by distance rules, and they are enforceable, not advisory. A common requirement is at least one 125 V, 15 or 20 amp receptacle for maintenance equipment located within a band that keeps it close enough to be useful but back from the edge, often described as roughly 6 to 20 ft from the inside wall, and receptacles within 20 ft of the pool require GFCI protection. The exact distances and the receptacle requirement vary by edition, so verify them against the code the jurisdiction adopted.
Underwater luminaires have their own rules. NEC 680.23(A)(5) places the top of the fixture lens at least 18 in below the normal water level, with as little as 4 in permitted only for a fixture specifically listed and identified for that shallower depth, so the fixture stays submerged and the lens does not become a shock or burn hazard at the surface. Low-voltage underwater lighting fed from a listed transformer that limits the output, commonly 15 V or less, may fall outside some GFCI requirements, but the niche, the fixture, and the associated metal still get bonded into the grid.
These clearances are the part of 680 that an inspector can check with a tape measure, and they do. A receptacle set too close, a switch within reach of the water, a light at the wrong depth. Lay them out from the code distances at rough-in, not after the deck and coping fix the geometry in place.
Spas and hot tubs: self-contained vs built-in
Spas and hot tubs fall under their own part of Article 680, and the bonding obligation depends on how the unit is built. A self-contained, listed packaged spa or hot tub, the kind that arrives as a finished unit and plugs in or lands on a cord-and-plug or a GFCI-protected circuit, carries much of its bonding internally as part of its listing. You still bond the parts the code calls out and you still provide the required GFCI and disconnect, but you are not building a perimeter grid around a portable spa the way you do for an in-ground pool.
A built-in or field-assembled spa, poured in place or set into a deck like a small pool, is treated much closer to a pool. It gets the full equipotential bonding treatment: the shell or steel, the perimeter surface, the metal fittings, the pump and heater, the metal piping, and the water bond, all tied into one plane under 680.26. The fact that it holds less water does not change the physics for a wet body touching metal.
The line to watch is the listing. A listed packaged unit comes with instructions that are part of the installation, and following them satisfies the parts the listing covers. A built-in spa has no such package, so the bonding falls on the installer the same as a pool. Confirm which category the spa is in before you assume the bonding is handled.
Existing pools and perimeter retrofits
Retrofitting bonding into an existing pool is the hard version of this work, because the parts you most need to reach are buried. The shell steel is under gunite, the deck is poured, and the perimeter conductor that should ride 18 to 24 in back from the wall is under whatever surface is already there. You cannot bond the shell steel after the fact without opening concrete, so the retrofit works with what is reachable.
The reachable parts are the metal fittings, the ladders and rails, the pump and equipment, the metal piping, and often a water bond that can be added at the equipment pad. Where the original install missed the perimeter, the practical fix is sometimes a perimeter conductor installed when the deck is replaced or a section is opened, tied to the reachable bonded parts. A perimeter grid added during a deck tear-out is far cheaper than one chased under intact concrete.
Be honest with the owner about what a retrofit can and cannot reach. Bonding the fittings and the water on an old pool is a real improvement, but if the shell and perimeter were never bonded and the deck is staying, the equipotential plane is incomplete and the record should say so. Do not sign off a partial retrofit as a code-complete bonding system.
Corrosion and the connections that fail
A pool is a corrosion environment. Chlorinated and salt water, wet soil, dissimilar metals, and constant moisture work on every connection in the bonding system, and the connection is where bonding fails long before the copper does. This is why the code wants listed clamps and fittings rated for the location and for direct burial, and why solid copper is preferred for the buried runs.
Dissimilar-metal contact is the quiet killer. Copper against aluminum, copper against galvanized, in wet soil, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the connection from the inside while both pieces look fine on the surface. Use fittings listed for the metals being joined, and where the pool is a saltwater system, expect the corrosion to run faster and spec the connectors accordingly.
The tell on a failed bond is the green crust and the loose clamp, and by the time you can see it the electrical continuity is already gone. On any service call to an older pool, the bonding connections are worth a look and an ohmmeter check, because a corroded bond is an open in the equipotential plane that nobody knew about until somebody felt it.
Why pool bonding gets inspected before the deck pour
The bonding inspection happens before the concrete, and there is no second chance. Once the gunite is shot and the deck is poured, the shell steel, the perimeter conductor, and the bonds to the rebar are buried where no inspector can see them. So the AHJ inspects the bonding at the steel stage, with the clamps visible and the copper run out to its connection points, before anything covers it. Pour first and you are tearing out concrete to prove a connection, or you are signing for work nobody can verify.
What the inspector looks at is the continuity of the plane: the bond to the shell steel, the perimeter conductor and its four-point connection, the bonds to the fittings and equipment that are set, and the path for the water bond. A continuity test with a low-resistance ohmmeter confirms that the bonded parts read as one connected plane rather than separate pieces. A reading that should be near zero ohms and instead shows resistance means a connection is not made.
Schedule the bonding inspection into the build, not around it. The pour date drives the whole pool schedule, and the temptation is to pour and call the inspection later. That is the one inspection you cannot do later. Get it signed before the concrete truck is on site.
Commercial pools, fountains, and water features
The same equipotential logic carries to commercial and institutional water: hotel and apartment pools, decorative fountains, splash pads, and the architectural water features that show up on corporate and data-center campuses. Article 680 has parts for fountains and similar installations alongside the pool provisions, and the principle does not change. Any accessible water with conductive parts a person can touch gets the conductive parts tied into one plane and the circuits GFCI-protected.
Fountains and water features get overlooked because nobody calls them a pool, but a person can wade into a splash pad and a worker can service a fountain with hands in the water. Bond the conductive parts, bond the water where the provisions require it, and protect the circuits, the same as a pool sized for swimming. Confirm which part of 680 governs the specific feature, since fountains and pools have separate provisions within the article.
Common mistakes
- Missing a required bonded part, the added ladder, a handrail, the autofill housing, or the metal coping nobody listed.
- Leaving the perimeter surface unbonded because it is extra wire under a deck nobody will see.
- Skipping the water bond, especially on plastic-plumbed pools with no natural metal in contact with the water.
- Using stranded conductor where the grid and perimeter call for #8 solid copper.
- Confusing bonding with grounding, running the grid to a ground rod, and calling the bonding done.
- Bonding the pump motor with the equipment grounding conductor but missing the separate bonding lug, or the reverse.
- Providing no GFCI, or assuming the bonding covers what only a GFCI can do.
- Pouring the deck before the bonding inspection, burying connections nobody verified.
Field checklist
Want this checklist to run itself on every job — with photo proof and a signed record crews can hand the customer? That's FieldOS.
What to document
The bonding system disappears under concrete, so the record is what proves it exists. Six months or six years later, when a swimmer reports a tingle or a remodel opens the deck, the record answers whether the plane was ever complete. Photograph the bonding at the steel stage before the pour, with the clamps and the perimeter conductor visible, because the photo is often the only evidence left.
Capture each bonded item and how it was bonded, the conductor size and material, the connector type and its listing, the water bond and its surface area, the GFCI protection provided, the continuity reading, who inspected it, and the date the bonding was signed off before the pour.
| Field to record | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Bonded items and method | Shows the plane is complete, part by part |
| Conductor size and material | Confirms #8 solid copper or the accepted alternate |
| Connector type and listing | Listed clamps are what hold up in the wet |
| Water bond and surface area | The most-missed required bond |
| GFCI protection provided | The interrupt half of the safety system |
| Continuity reading | Proves the parts read as one plane |
| Pre-pour inspection and date | The one inspection that cannot be redone |
Standards and references
The NEC, NFPA 70, Article 680 is where pool, spa, and similar installations live, and the equipotential bonding requirements sit at 680.26. That section covers the parts that must be bonded, the equipotential bonding grid, the perimeter surface extending 3 ft from the inside wall, and the water bond through a conductive surface in contact with the water. The common #8 AWG solid copper, the perimeter offset, the four-point connection, and the roughly 9 sq in water-bond surface all trace to that section and its subsections.
GFCI requirements for pool motors, lighting, and receptacles, receptacle and luminaire clearances, and the spa and hot tub provisions sit in other parts of Article 680, with packaged spas and built-in spas treated differently. The exact section numbers, dimensions, conductor sizes, and the scope of GFCI have all moved across recent code cycles, including changes in the 2020, 2023, and 2026 editions. Confirm every number against the edition the jurisdiction has actually adopted and any local amendments before you cite it on a permit or a submittal.
The clamps, connectors, and listed water-bond fittings are listed products under UL and similar listings, and the listing is what makes a connection acceptable for the location and the metals joined. The AHJ inspects and enforces all of it. The points that do not change between editions are the ones worth carrying in your head: bonding is not grounding, the equipotential grid equalizes potential, the water itself gets bonded, and the whole thing is inspected before the deck buries it.
Units, terms, and definitions
Pool bonding work crosses a few terms and units, and the same idea can read differently across a plan, a listing, and an inspector's report.
Equipotential bonding is also called equalization bonding, and the conductive plane it creates is the equipotential bonding grid. Conductor size is given in AWG, with #8 the common size for the grid and perimeter. Surface area for the water bond is given in square inches in the NEC and square millimeters in metric sources. Distances appear in feet and inches in the code and in meters in the metric column, where 3 ft reads as about 1 m and the 18 to 24 in perimeter offset reads in millimeters.
- Equipotential bonding
- Tying conductive parts together so they sit at the same potential, with nothing for a body to bridge
- Bonding grid
- The conductive plane around the pool, the shell steel or a copper conductor grid, that parts bond to
- Perimeter surface
- The walking area within 3 ft of the inside wall, bonded as part of the plane
- Water bond
- A conductive surface in contact with the water, commonly at least 9 sq in, tied into the grid
- Bonding lug
- The provided terminal on a pump motor or fitting where the bonding conductor lands
- GFCI
- Ground-fault circuit interrupter, which opens the circuit when current leaks off the intended path
FAQ
What is pool equipotential bonding?
Pool equipotential bonding ties every conductive part in and around the pool, the shell, perimeter, fittings, pump, piping, and the water, into one plane held at the same potential. The point is that a wet swimmer touching two parts feels no voltage difference because there is none between bonded parts to feel.
What is the difference between bonding and grounding a pool?
Bonding ties pool metal parts together so they share one potential and a swimmer feels no difference. Grounding connects the system to earth and gives fault current a path back to trip the breaker. Bonding equalizes; it does not clear faults. A pool can be grounded and still be dangerous if it is not bonded.
What size wire is used for pool bonding?
The equipotential bonding grid and perimeter conductor are commonly #8 AWG solid copper, and the solid form matters for direct burial and clamping. Recent editions also recognize copper-clad steel at the same minimum size. Confirm the size and material against the code edition your jurisdiction has adopted before ordering.
Do you have to bond the pool water?
Yes. Recent code editions require the water to be bonded through a conductive surface in contact with it, commonly at least 9 sq in, tied into the bonding grid. A light niche, a listed water-bond fitting, or suitable metal in the water works. Plastic-plumbed pools need a fitting added on purpose.
Does the pool bonding grid have to connect to a ground rod?
No. The equipotential bonding grid is not required to connect to a ground rod, a grounding electrode, the panel, or the service. It equalizes potential by tying parts together, not by reaching earth. Running it to a ground rod and stopping there is a common mistake that leaves the bonding job half done.
What must be bonded around a swimming pool?
Under NEC 680.26 you bond the shell or its reinforcing steel, the perimeter surface within 3 ft, all metal fittings, the pump motor and pool equipment, metal piping and conduit in the zone, and the water. Small isolated metal under 4 in and penetrating less than 1 in is exempt.
Do pool pump motors need GFCI protection?
Yes. Article 680 commonly requires Class A GFCI protection for pool pump motors on branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground and 60 amperes or less, single or three phase. The pump is also bonded into the grid and grounded through its equipment grounding conductor. Verify the scope against the adopted edition.
When does pool bonding have to be inspected?
Pool bonding is inspected before the deck and shell concrete is poured, because once the steel and perimeter conductor are buried nobody can verify them. The inspector checks the bonds and continuity of the plane at the steel stage. Pour first and you may have to break concrete to prove a connection exists.
Does a self-contained spa need equipotential bonding?
A listed self-contained or packaged spa carries much of its bonding internally as part of its listing, so you follow the instructions and provide the required GFCI and disconnect. A built-in or field-assembled spa poured in place is treated like a pool and gets the full 680.26 equipotential bonding, including the water bond.
People also ask
Codes cited in this guide
This guide is written and reviewed against the published standards below. Always confirm the current adopted edition with the authority having jurisdiction.