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HVAC air duct cleaning and IAQ field guide: the NADCA source-removal method

When duct cleaning is actually warranted, how NADCA source removal cleans the whole system under negative air, and how to prove it worked instead of just paying for it.

Air Duct CleaningNADCA ACRSource RemovalIndoor Air QualityHVAC

Direct answer

Air duct cleaning is the physical removal of accumulated dust, debris, and contamination from the whole HVAC system, supply, return, coil, blower, and plenum, to restore cleanliness and airflow. The EPA does not recommend routine cleaning. Clean when there is visible mold, verified vermin, or debris discharging from the registers, using NADCA source removal.

Key takeaways

  • The EPA does not recommend routine duct cleaning; clean only with visible mold, verified vermin, or debris discharging from the registers.
  • NADCA source removal is the only accepted method: mechanically agitate debris while holding the whole system under continuous negative pressure with HEPA collection.
  • Whole-system rule: clean supply, return, coil, blower wheel and housing, drain pan, and plenum, or the cleaned ducts reseed within weeks.
  • HEPA captures 99.97 percent of particles down to 0.3 micron; without negative-air containment, agitation just spreads dust into the living space.
  • Duct cleaning does not fix mold: correct the moisture source first, then remediate, and replace moldy or wet fiberglass liner rather than cleaning it.

What duct cleaning is, and what clean is supposed to mean

Air duct cleaning is the physical removal of dust, debris, and contamination that has built up inside the ductwork and the rest of the air-handling system. Done right, it pulls that material out of the system instead of stirring it into the building. The point is to restore the cleanliness of the air path, recover airflow the debris was choking, and take one source of particulate out of the air people breathe.

The word that matters is removal. A wand that loosens dust and a vacuum held near the register is not cleaning if the loosened dust ends up downstream or back in the room. Real cleaning means the contamination leaves the system and gets captured.

There is an honest framing the trade has to keep straight. Duct cleaning is worth doing when something warrants it. It is not a service every system needs on a schedule, and the version sold door to door for a flat fee is almost never the version that cleans anything. Filtration and routine maintenance keep most systems clean enough that the ducts rarely need this work. The air-filtration and the preventive-maintenance guides cover those two pieces.

When do you need your ducts cleaned?

You need duct cleaning when there is a real, visible reason, not because a calendar says so. The EPA lists three conditions that warrant it, and the trade follows the same logic.

The first is substantial visible mold growth on the hard surfaces inside the ducts or on other parts of the system, like the coil, the drain pan, or the plenum. The second is a vermin infestation, rodents or insects living in the ductwork, with the droppings and nesting material that come with them. The third is ducts so loaded with dust and debris that particles actually discharge from the supply registers into the room, the visible puff of dust when the system kicks on.

Add two more the field sees often. After construction or a renovation, drywall dust and sawdust get pulled into an operating system and coat everything. After a fire or a water event, soot or moisture contamination rides through the ducts. Those are legitimate triggers too. The common thread is evidence you can point to, not a sales pitch that your ducts must be dirty because all ducts are dirty.

When is duct cleaning not worth doing?

The EPA does not recommend routine duct cleaning, and that position has held for years. Duct cleaning has never been shown to prevent health problems on its own, and a light coat of settled dust on the inside of a sheet-metal duct does not migrate into the air the way the ads imply. Dust that sits in a duct mostly stays in the duct.

So the honest answer to your ducts are dirty, you should clean them is: show me. Without visible mold, verified vermin, or particulate actually coming out of the registers, there is usually no reason to clean. The flat-rate phone offer is the tell. A real job gets priced after someone looks at the system, not before.

There is one nuance. If a system has none of the warning signs but the owner wants peace of mind after buying a house with an unknown history, that is their call to make. Price it and scope it honestly, and do not invent a problem to justify the work.

The whole-system rule

Cleaning the ducts alone does not clean the system. The supply ducts, the return ducts, the coil, the blower, the plenums, and the air-handler cabinet are one connected path, and dirt left in any part of it migrates back into the parts you cleaned the first time the fan runs. Clean half and you have cleaned nothing for long.

This is the core of the NADCA approach. The standard treats the HVAC system as a whole and calls for cleaning all of it the contamination has reached, supply and return both, plus the coil, the blower wheel, the drain pan, and the plenum. The return side is the one cut-rate jobs skip, and it is often the dirtier side, because that is the air on its way back to the filter.

Recontamination is the reason. Leave the blower wheel caked and the coil loaded, clean only the visible runs, and the system reseeds the clean ducts within weeks. A partial cleaning is a temporary cosmetic result sold as a permanent one.

ACR, the NADCA standard

NADCA, the National Air Duct Cleaners Association, publishes the industry standard for this work: ACR, the NADCA Standard for Assessment, Cleaning, and Restoration of HVAC Systems. The 2025 edition is the current one as of this review, and it is the document a commercial spec usually references when it calls for duct cleaning done to a standard.

The three words in the title are the sequence. Assessment comes first: look at the system, determine the type and extent of contamination, and decide whether cleaning is even warranted before anyone runs a brush. Cleaning is the source-removal work itself. Restoration covers what gets repaired or replaced, like a moldy fiberglass liner that cannot be cleaned.

The credential that goes with it is the ASCS, the Air Systems Cleaning Specialist, the NADCA certification for the individual running the job, earned by passing an exam on system assessment, source-removal procedure, and the ACR standard. Hiring a NADCA member firm with an ASCS on the crew is the closest thing to a guarantee that whole-system source removal is what you are actually buying. Treat the specifics here as a topic reference and confirm against the current edition.

What is NADCA source removal?

Source removal is the only cleaning method the NADCA standard accepts, and it is exactly what the name says: get the contamination out of the system rather than loosening it, coating it, or pushing it around. It has two halves that work together, and skipping either one breaks the method.

The first half is agitation. You mechanically dislodge the debris stuck to the duct walls with brushes, air whips, compressed-air nozzles, or skipper balls. Settled dust, the film on the duct wall, the buildup in the corners, none of it leaves on its own. Something has to knock it loose.

The second half is capture under continuous negative pressure. While the agitation runs, the whole system is held under vacuum by a HEPA-filtered collection machine, so the loosened debris travels toward the collector and out of the building instead of into the rooms. Agitate without capture and you have just made the air worse. Capture without agitation and the stuck-on debris never moves. The two run at the same time, and that is the method.

Negative air and HEPA collection

The negative-air machine is the piece that decides whether the job cleans the building or contaminates it. It is a HEPA-filtered vacuum collection unit, truck-mounted or portable, that holds the duct system under continuous negative pressure for the whole cleaning. Loosened debris has only one way to go, toward the collector, because the system is under suction the entire time.

HEPA is the standard for the filter on that collector because it captures 99.97 percent of particles down to 0.3 micron, which covers the fine dust and the mold spores you do not want exhausted back inside. If the unit exhausts indoors, the HEPA stage is what keeps the fine fraction from going straight back into the air. A truck-mount that exhausts outdoors handles that by location.

This is the number one thing that separates a real job from a bad one. No negative air, no containment, and the agitation just redistributes the dust into the living space. Before any brush moves, the registers get sealed and the system gets put under negative pressure. If a crew shows up without a collection unit big enough to hold the system under vacuum, they cannot do source removal, whatever they call it.

Agitation tools and the access openings

The agitation tools are simple and each has a place. Rotary brushes scrub the duct wall directly and suit hard-surface sheet metal. Air whips and skipper balls use compressed air to whip lines or bounce a nozzle through a run, knocking debris loose without a brush touching the wall, which matters on lined duct. Compressed-air nozzles blast the corners and the spots a brush cannot reach. The choice follows the duct material and the layout, not habit.

None of it works without access. To clean and inspect a run, the crew has to reach it, and that means access openings, either factory service doors or openings cut into the duct and then sealed back with a proper patch or a listed access panel. A clean job leaves the access points closed and airtight, not taped over with duct tape that lets air bypass.

The access is also how the system gets inspected, before and after. A run nobody can open is a run nobody cleaned and nobody verified. On older systems with no service openings, expect cut-and-patch access to be part of the scope and the price.

Cleaning the coil, the blower, and the air handler

The evaporator coil is the biggest dirt trap in the system. Air pulls through the filter, whatever the filter misses lands on the wet coil and stays there, building a mat that chokes airflow and feeds mold at the drain pan. A whole-system cleaning includes the coil, washed with a cleaner appropriate to the fin material and rinsed, because a clean duct feeding a dirty coil is a system that is still dirty where it matters most. The preventive-maintenance and air-filtration guides both cover the coil from the upkeep side.

The blower is the other one. The blower wheel collects a hardened film of dust on every vane, and a loaded wheel moves measurably less air while drawing more power. Cleaning the wheel, the housing, and the motor area is part of the job, not an add-on. So is the drain pan, where standing water and biofilm collect, and the air-handler cabinet itself.

Skip the coil and the blower and you have cleaned the easy parts and left the dirty heart of the system alone. That is the partial job that reseeds the ducts.

How do you prove the ducts are actually clean?

You prove it the same way you assessed it: by looking, before and after, and by a defined test rather than a claim. The pre-cleaning inspection establishes whether the work is warranted and scopes it, usually with a camera or a borescope run into the ducts so the condition is documented, not assumed.

The post-cleaning verification is what separates a finished job from a finished invoice. The NADCA standard gives two methods. The visual and surface checks confirm the system is visibly clean and free of debris. The NADCA Vacuum Test, sometimes called the gravimetric or particulate test, takes a measured sample from the cleaned surface to verify the debris left behind is below the standard's limit. That is the number that turns clean into a defensible result.

Before-and-after photographs through the access openings are the practical record on most jobs, residential especially. Insist on them. A crew that cleaned the system will gladly show you the inside of the duct before and after. A crew that did not will talk around it.

Can duct cleaning fix mold?

Duct cleaning alone does not fix mold, and selling it as a mold fix is one of the dishonest moves in this trade. Mold grows where there is moisture. Clean the visible growth out of the ducts and leave the moisture source running, and it comes back. The EPA is explicit on that point. The cleaning treats the symptom. The moisture is the cause.

So the order is fixed. Find and correct the moisture source first, the leaking coil, the sweating uninsulated duct, the failed drain pan, the humidity the system never controls. Then remediate the mold. Then, if warranted, clean the system. Reverse that order and you are paying to grow mold again.

Mold remediation is its own discipline, not the same thing as duct cleaning, and the IICRC standards for water damage and mold remediation are the reference body for that work. Porous, mold-contaminated materials like a fiberglass liner usually get removed and replaced, because you cannot reliably clean mold out of a porous surface. When the contamination is real, bring in remediation, not just a duct-cleaning wand.

Fiberglass and internally lined duct

Internally lined duct and fiberglass duct board change the method, because the surface being cleaned is the insulation itself. You cannot scrub fiberglass liner with a stiff rotary brush the way you would sheet metal. Aggressive brushing tears the liner, erodes fibers into the airstream, and damages the very surface you are trying to clean. Lined duct gets the gentler tools, soft-bristled brushes and air-based agitation, following the NADCA method for lined systems and the NAIMA recommended practice for fibrous-glass duct.

The harder truth is about damaged or moldy liner. There are no EPA-registered biocides for porous fiberglass duct material, so you cannot disinfect a moldy liner and call it cleaned. Once a fiberglass liner is mold-contaminated or has been soaked, cleaning will not stop the regrowth. The EPA, NADCA, and NAIMA all point to the same answer: replace the wet or moldy fiberglass, do not try to clean it.

This is where the restoration in the standard earns its place. Assess the liner, clean what is sound, and replace what is not. The duct-insulation question rides along with this one, because a damaged liner is also a failed insulation.

Sanitizers and antimicrobials

Chemicals come last, if at all, and only after the system is actually clean. A sanitizer or antimicrobial is not a substitute for source removal. Fogging a dirty system with a disinfectant leaves the dirt in place and coats it, which is theater, not cleaning. If a product gets used, it goes on a cleaned surface, it is an EPA-registered antimicrobial labeled for HVAC use, and it is applied exactly per the label.

The label is the law here, literally. Using an antimicrobial off-label in a duct is a misuse of a registered pesticide. Some products are registered for use inside bare sheet-metal ducts when every label direction is followed. None are registered for porous fiberglass duct material, so the moldy-liner answer stays replacement, not chemical treatment.

Be skeptical of any pitch built around fogging or sanitizing as the main event. The honest use of a sanitizer is narrow: a cleaned system, a real reason, a registered product, the label followed. Anything sold as spray-and-done is selling you the part that does nothing.

Where duct cleaning fits in indoor air quality

Duct cleaning is one piece of indoor air quality, not the whole answer, and treating it as a cure for bad air sets up a disappointed customer. IAQ comes from four things working together: filtration that catches particulate, cleanliness in the system, ventilation that brings in outdoor air and dilutes what builds up indoors, and moisture control that keeps humidity and condensation from feeding mold.

Duct cleaning addresses the cleanliness piece, and only when the system has actually fouled. It does nothing for a building with a clogged filter, no fresh-air intake, or a humidity problem. If someone has an air-quality complaint and the ducts are not visibly fouled, the cause is usually one of the other three, and cleaning the ducts will not touch it.

This is why the honest move is to look at the whole picture. Filtration is covered in the air-filtration and MERV guide, ventilation rates trace back to ASHRAE 62.1, and moisture is its own investigation. Duct cleaning takes its turn when the assessment shows the system itself is the problem, and not before.

Filtration and preventing the recontamination

The way you keep from cleaning the same ducts again is the filter. A clean system fouls again at the rate that particulate gets past the filter and the filter housing, so a better-sealed, higher-efficiency filter that actually gets changed is what makes a cleaning last. Spend the money on the filtration and you spend less on repeat cleanings.

Two things matter more than the MERV number alone. The filter has to fit and seal, because air takes the path of least resistance and a gap around the filter lets dirty air bypass straight to the coil. And it has to get changed on its pressure drop, not on a forgotten calendar, before it loads up and either bypasses or starves the airflow. The air-filtration and MERV guide covers how to pick the rating against the system static and how to seal against bypass.

A duct cleaning with no change to the filtration behind it is a cleaning with a countdown on it. Fix the input and the system stays clean on its own far longer.

Post-construction and renovation cleaning

Construction is one of the clearest reasons to clean a system, because the debris is specific and heavy. Drywall sanding, sawing, and demolition throw fine dust that gets pulled into a running system and coats the ducts, the coil, and the blower. If the HVAC ran during the build without the returns protected, the whole system holds construction dust, and the first months of occupancy get spent breathing it back out.

The better play is to protect the system during the build, cover the returns, run temporary filtration, and keep the permanent system off or filtered while the dirty work happens. When that did not happen, a post-construction cleaning before occupancy is warranted and worth doing right, whole-system, before people move in.

Drywall dust is also fine and abrasive, and it loads a coil fast. On a renovation where the system stayed live, expect the coil and the blower to need as much attention as the ducts. This is a legitimate trigger, not an upsell, and it is one of the few cases where cleaning a relatively new system makes sense.

How often should ducts be cleaned?

There is no fixed interval, and any company quoting a flat every-three-years rule is selling a schedule, not assessing a system. The honest answer is that you clean when an inspection shows it is warranted, by the same triggers as the first cleaning: visible mold, vermin, or debris discharging from the registers. For a typical residential system with a filter that gets changed, that can be many years apart, or never.

Commercial is different, because the loads are different. A building with high occupancy, a dusty process, or a system that runs hard can foul faster and may justify a routine inspection cycle, with cleaning when the inspection calls for it. The driver is still the condition, not the calendar. The NADCA standard frames frequency around inspection and contamination level rather than a fixed clock.

The trap is the maintenance contract that bundles annual duct cleaning into the price. Annual filter and coil service makes sense. Annual duct cleaning, on a system that filters well, usually does not, and it quietly turns a warranted service into a recurring charge.

Commercial systems, kitchen exhaust, and data centers

Two commercial cases come up enough to call out. First, the commercial kitchen grease-exhaust system is a different animal from HVAC duct cleaning, and the NADCA HVAC standard does not cover it. Grease exhaust is a fire-code matter governed by NFPA 96, cleaned to bare metal from the hood through the duct to the rooftop fan by a qualified hood-cleaning company on a frequency set by the cooking volume. Do not let anyone roll grease-duct cleaning and HVAC duct cleaning into one line item. They are separate trades with separate standards, and the kitchen-exhaust topic is its own guide.

Second, data centers and other critical commercial systems treat duct and air-handler cleanliness as part of keeping particulate off the equipment and out of the cooling path. The work is the same whole-system source removal, scaled up, with tighter containment and scheduling around uptime. ASHRAE TC 9.9 thermal guidance frames the environment those rooms hold, and the cleaning serves that, not just the air people breathe.

On large built-up air handlers, the cabinet, the coil bank, and the fan get the same attention a residential job gives the blower wheel. The scale changes; the method does not.

What a real duct cleaning includes, and what it costs

The gap between the price of a real cleaning and the price of a scam is the whole story of this trade. The flat phone-quoted rate is the bait. The real job gets priced after an assessment, scoped to the whole system, and it costs more because it includes the labor and equipment the cheap version skips.

A warranted, done-right job includes the assessment, access openings cut and sealed where needed, agitation of the supply and return runs, the coil, the blower wheel and housing, the drain pan and the plenum, all under continuous negative pressure with HEPA collection, and a before-and-after verification you can see. That is hours of work and real equipment, not twenty minutes with a shop vac.

The value is straightforward. When the cleaning is warranted, it removes a real contamination source and restores airflow the debris was choking. When it is not warranted, no price is a good price, because you are paying to solve a problem you do not have. Spend the money when the assessment says spend it, and not because a flyer said your ducts are dirty.

Safety on the job

The first hazard is electrical. The air handler and the blower get opened and cleaned, so the unit gets locked and tagged out at the disconnect before anyone reaches into it. A blower that energizes with a hand in the wheel is the kind of accident that ends a career. Verify it is dead. Do not assume the thermostat is enough.

The second is what you are cleaning. Mold, rodent droppings, and the fine debris in a fouled system are respiratory and biological hazards. That means proper respiratory protection, gloves, and eye protection, and on a real mold or vermin job, containment so the contamination does not spread into the occupied space while you work. Hantavirus from rodent droppings is a real risk, not a checkbox.

The third is the work itself. Reaching air handlers and rooftop units puts crews on ladders, in attics, and in tight cabinets, which is confined-space and fall territory depending on the building. The negative-air containment that protects the building also protects the crew, which is one more reason it is not optional.

What to document

The record is what proves the job was warranted, scoped to the whole system, and verified, and it is what a building owner or the next contractor reads later. Without before-and-after images and a verification result, a duct cleaning is a claim the owner has no reason to believe and you have no way to back.

Capture the reason the cleaning was warranted, what the pre-inspection found, the scope of what was cleaned, the method and equipment used, the verification result, and any restoration like replaced liner. Photographs through the access openings, before and after, are the core of it.

Item to recordWhy it matters
Trigger and pre-inspection findingShows the work was warranted, not an upsell
Scope: supply, return, coil, blower, plenumProves the whole system was cleaned, not just ducts
Method and equipment (negative air, HEPA)Documents source removal, not surface fogging
Access openings created and how sealedLets the next tech reopen and verify
Moisture source corrected, if moldMold recurs if the cause was left running
Before-and-after photos and verification testThe defensible proof the system is clean
Restoration: liner replaced, parts changedRecords what could not be cleaned

Common mistakes

  • Cleaning only the ducts and leaving the coil and blower dirty, which reseeds the clean runs within weeks.
  • Running agitation with no negative-air containment, which spreads the loosened dust into the living space.
  • Cleaning visible mold without finding and correcting the moisture source, so it grows back.
  • Scrubbing fiberglass liner with a stiff brush, which tears the liner and sheds fibers into the air.
  • Fogging a sanitizer through a dirty system instead of removing the contamination first.
  • Skipping the before-and-after inspection, so there is no proof the system is actually clean.
  • Selling a cleaning with no visible trigger, on the claim that all ducts are dirty.
  • Applying an antimicrobial off-label or on porous fiberglass, where none is registered.

Field checklist

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Standards and references

ACR, the NADCA Standard for Assessment, Cleaning, and Restoration of HVAC Systems, is the document this work is measured against, with the 2025 edition current as of this review. It defines source removal as the accepted method, sets the whole-system scope, and gives the verification methods, including the NADCA Vacuum Test. The ASCS, the Air Systems Cleaning Specialist, is the matching individual certification.

The EPA guidance, Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned, is the reference for when cleaning is warranted and for the position that routine cleaning is not recommended. The EPA is also the authority on antimicrobial use in HVAC systems, where the registered label governs. For mold and water damage, the IICRC standards are the reference body, and the rule that the moisture source gets corrected first comes from there and from the EPA alike.

Two boundaries. The NAIMA recommended practice covers cleaning fibrous-glass and lined duct. NFPA 96 governs commercial kitchen grease-exhaust cleaning, which is a separate trade from HVAC duct cleaning. Ventilation rates trace to ASHRAE 62.1. Editions and local adoption change, so confirm the current version and any jurisdiction requirements before citing them on a job.

Units and terms

The trade uses a few terms loosely, so it helps to pin them down. Source removal and mechanical cleaning mean the same thing in this context: agitate and capture. The air-handling unit is the AHU. The plenum is the box at the supply or return of the air handler where the ducts connect.

HEPA means high-efficiency particulate air, defined as 99.97 percent capture at 0.3 micron. A negative-air machine, an air scrubber, and a HEPA collection unit are close cousins, all built to hold a space or a system under filtered negative pressure.

Source removal
Dislodging contamination by agitation and capturing it under continuous negative pressure, the NADCA-accepted method
ACR / ASCS
ACR is the NADCA standard; ASCS is the Air Systems Cleaning Specialist, the NADCA individual certification
Negative-air machine
HEPA-filtered vacuum unit that holds the system under continuous negative pressure during cleaning
HEPA
High-efficiency particulate air filter, 99.97 percent capture at 0.3 micron
Plenum / AHU
Plenum is the supply or return box at the air handler; AHU is the air-handling unit
NADCA Vacuum Test
Gravimetric post-cleaning test measuring debris left on the cleaned surface against the standard limit

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FAQ

Does duct cleaning really work?

Done right, yes, when it is warranted. Whole-system source removal physically pulls accumulated debris out of a fouled system and can restore airflow and remove a particulate source. On a system that is not actually dirty it does little, and the EPA notes routine cleaning has not been shown to prevent health problems.

When do you need your ducts cleaned?

Clean when there is a visible reason: substantial mold inside the ducts or on the coil, a rodent or insect infestation, or dust and debris actually discharging from the registers. After construction, fire, or water damage also qualifies. Without one of those, there is usually no reason to clean.

What is NADCA source removal?

Source removal is the only cleaning method the NADCA standard accepts. It means dislodging debris from the duct walls with brushes, air whips, or compressed air while holding the whole system under continuous negative pressure with a HEPA collector, so the loosened material leaves the building instead of resettling inside it.

Can duct cleaning fix mold?

No, not by itself. Mold grows where there is moisture, so cleaning the visible growth without correcting the moisture source lets it return. Find and fix the leak or humidity first, then remediate the mold per IICRC guidance. Mold-contaminated fiberglass liner gets replaced, because porous material cannot be reliably cleaned.

How often should air ducts be cleaned?

There is no fixed interval. Clean when an inspection shows a real trigger, not on a calendar. A residential system with a filter that gets changed can go many years or never. Commercial systems with heavy loads may justify a routine inspection cycle, with cleaning only when the condition warrants it.

Is the cheap flat-rate duct cleaning a scam?

A flat phone-quoted rate priced before anyone sees the system is the classic bait. A real job is priced after an assessment and includes the coil, blower, and negative-air HEPA collection, which takes hours and real equipment. The cheap version usually moves dust around rather than removing it.

Do you need to clean the coil and blower too?

Yes. The evaporator coil and the blower wheel are the dirtiest parts of the system, and cleaning only the ducts leaves them to reseed the clean runs within weeks. NADCA's whole-system rule covers supply, return, coil, blower, drain pan, and plenum, because a partial cleaning does not last.

Can you sanitize ducts instead of cleaning them?

No. Fogging a sanitizer through a dirty system coats the dirt instead of removing it. A sanitizer is used only after source-removal cleaning, only as an EPA-registered antimicrobial labeled for HVAC use, and only per the label. No biocide is registered for porous fiberglass duct, so a moldy liner gets replaced.

What is the difference between duct cleaning and kitchen exhaust cleaning?

They are separate trades. HVAC duct cleaning follows the NADCA standard and removes dust and contamination from the air system. Commercial kitchen grease-exhaust cleaning is a fire-code job under NFPA 96, cleaned to bare metal from hood to rooftop fan. Do not let a contractor bundle the two into one line item.

People also ask

Codes cited in this guide

This guide is written and reviewed against the published standards below. Always confirm the current adopted edition with the authority having jurisdiction.