Epoxy and resinous floor coating install field guide

What resinous flooring is and where it fits

Resinous flooring is a bonded resin coating system installed over concrete to give a jointless, chemical and abrasion resistant, cleanable surface. The resin is usually epoxy, sometimes polyaspartic, urethane, or methyl methacrylate, built up in coats and often loaded with quartz or vinyl flake for thickness and slip. It is not a tile and not a topping you can lift. It is bonded to the slab, so the slab and the coating live or die together.

It fits where a bare or sealed slab will not hold up: warehouse and manufacturing floors that take forklift and steel-wheel traffic, healthcare and pharmaceutical spaces that have to be wiped down and stay free of joints that harbor dirt, food and beverage plants washing the floor every shift, and data centers that need a hard, dust-free, static-controlled surface under the racks. The selling point in all of them is the same. No joints to trap contamination, a surface that takes chemicals and cleaning, and a floor that does not dust off into the product or the air.

Here is the part that gets skipped. The floor does not live or die on which resin you pick. It lives or dies on the moisture in the slab and the surface prep underneath the resin. The fanciest 100 percent solids system on a wet, unprepared slab peels. A basic epoxy on a dry, properly profiled slab holds for years. Spend your attention where the failures actually come from, which is the concrete, not the bucket.

Do you need a moisture test before epoxy?

Yes. Moisture is the number one cause of resinous floor failure, and you test for it before you prep, not after the coating bubbles. Concrete carries water, and a slab that is still drying drives vapor up through itself. A coating seals the top, the vapor pressure builds under the film, and the bond lets go. You get blisters, then peeling, then a delamination you own. There is no resin that fixes a slab driving moisture. You measure it and you respect the number.

Two test methods carry the work. ASTM F2170 reads relative humidity inside the slab with in-situ probes drilled to depth, commonly 40 percent of the slab thickness for a slab drying from one side. It tells you what the slab interior will do once the top is sealed, which is why it is the more trusted test today. ASTM F1869 is the calcium chloride test, measuring the moisture vapor emission rate in pounds per 1000 square feet over a 24 hour dome, and it reads only the top fraction of the slab. F1869 is not valid on lightweight concrete and not valid over an existing coating, so it has limits the RH test does not.

The limits belong to the manufacturer, not to a rule of thumb. A common F2170 ceiling is 75 percent RH, with some systems rated to 80 percent or higher, and a common F1869 ceiling is 3 pounds per 1000 square feet per 24 hours, with some to 5. Those are starting points. Use the number on the product data sheet for the system you are installing, because that is the number the warranty is written against.

If the slab reads wet, you do not coat it and hope. You install a moisture mitigation primer, a 100 percent solids epoxy moisture barrier rated to hold back the vapor drive up to a stated RH or emission rate, then build your system on top of that. The right long-term answer is a vapor barrier under the slab so the slab stays dry in the first place, which is a design decision made before the pour. See the slab-on-grade guide for the under-slab vapor retarder, and price the mitigation primer the day the moisture test comes back high, not after the floor fails.

How do you prep concrete for epoxy?

You prep concrete mechanically, not chemically. The goal is to strip off the laitance and any curing compound, sealer, or contamination on the surface, then open the pores so the resin keys into sound concrete. Mechanical abrasion does that. Acid does not, and a real system never relies on an acid etch.

Shot blasting and diamond grinding are the two methods that count. A shot blaster fires steel media at the slab and cleans as it profiles, leaving no dust ground into the surface, which makes it the go-to for open floor area and aggressive profiles. Diamond grinding cuts the surface and is the tool for edges, corners, columns, and tight rooms, but it drives fines back into the pores, so you have to vacuum and clean before you coat or you have built your own bond-breaker. Run a moisture and contamination check before you commit the method, since some old slabs hide a previous coating or a hardener under the grime.

Acid etching belongs to the consumer kit, not the industrial floor. It only reaches a CSP 1 to 2, far short of what a real system wants, it leaves a residue and salts you have to neutralize and rinse, and it does nothing to a contaminated or hard-troweled slab. The other quiet killer is the curing compound from the original pour. A membrane-forming compound is a bond-breaker by design, and if it was not removed in prep, your coating sits on it and peels. The curing guide covers why that compound and a coating fight each other. The fix is the same for all of it: grind or blast back to clean, sound concrete and verify the profile before the primer comes out.

Concrete surface profile and the ICRI chips

Concrete surface profile, CSP, is the roughness you create in prep, and it has to match the system you are installing. The International Concrete Repair Institute set the scale from CSP 1, a nearly smooth ground surface, up through CSP 9 and 10, a heavy scarified texture. Too smooth and a thick system has nothing to grip. Too rough under a thin coat and the profile telegraphs through or starves the peaks of film.

Match the profile to the film thickness, and let the manufacturer's data sheet make the call for their product. As a general guide, a thin coating in the 4 to 10 mil range wants roughly a CSP 2 to 3, a standard build in the 15 to 50 mil range wants a CSP 4 to 5, and a heavy build, slurry, or mortar system wants a CSP 5 to 6 or coarser. Verify it with the ICRI molded rubber comparator chips. You hold the chip to the prepped slab and compare by eye and by touch. If the slab matches or exceeds the specified chip, the profile passes. That comparison is also exactly what an inspector does, so prep to pass it.

The number people forget is that a clean profile is a profile, not just a texture. A slab that grades CSP 4 by chip but has dust or residue in the valleys will still fail the bond. Profile and cleanliness are two checks, not one.

Crack, joint, and spall repair before coating

You fix the concrete before you coat it, because the coating follows the substrate it sits on. A spall, a low spot, or an open crack telegraphs straight through a thin film and becomes a defect in the finished floor, and the repair has to be done before the system goes down, not patched in after.

Static cracks and surface defects get cut out or chased open, cleaned, and filled with a rigid epoxy or polyurea repair mortar that bonds and can be ground flush, so the patch becomes part of the surface the coating bridges. Spalls and saw-cut overruns get the same treatment, built back to plane. Bug holes and a porous surface on a thin-build system usually need a skim or grout coat first, or the broadcast and topcoat keep finding pinholes.

Moving joints are the exception, and getting this wrong is the classic mistake. A control joint or an expansion joint moves with the slab. Fill a moving joint solid with rigid epoxy under a coating and the slab cracks it on the next cycle, taking your floor with it right at the joint line. Honor the moving joints. Either carry them through the coating as a saw-and-fill detail with a flexible joint sealant, or hold the coating back and treat the joint as a joint. The rule is simple: static cracks get filled rigid, moving joints get honored.

The resin systems: epoxy, polyaspartic, urethane, and MMA

Epoxy is the workhorse and the default for the body of most industrial floors. It bonds hard, builds film cheaply, takes broadcast media well, and resists most chemicals. Its weak spots are slow cure, an amine blush habit, and yellowing in sunlight, which is why epoxy is often the build coat under a different topcoat rather than the final wear layer outdoors or in daylight.

Polyaspartic and polyurea cure fast, often walkable in an hour or two instead of overnight, hold color in UV, and stay flexible in the cold, which makes them the call for cold storage, fast-turnaround jobs, and clear topcoats over a flake broadcast. The price of that speed is a short pot life and a short working time, so they punish a slow or undertrained crew. Urethane brings chemical and abrasion resistance and UV stability and earns its place as a topcoat over an epoxy build, with urethane cement mortars handling thermal shock and constant wet heat in food plants. Methyl methacrylate, MMA, is the fastest of all, curing in a couple of hours even in the cold because it is peroxide-catalyzed, so it is the pick when the floor has to be back in service same day or installed in a freezer. The catch is a strong odor during install that keeps it out of occupied spaces without serious ventilation.

Solids content is a second axis. A 100 percent solids epoxy has no carrier, builds the most film per coat, and gives off little to no VOC, so it is the body of most heavy systems. Water-based and solvent-based products carry less film and flash off their carrier, and they earn a spot as thin primers, breathable coats over marginal moisture, or low-odor work in tight spaces. Pick the resin for the service the floor sees, then let the manufacturer's system, not your habit, decide the buildup.

The system buildup: primer, body, broadcast, topcoat

A resinous floor is a stack, not a coat, and each layer has a job. The primer wets into the prepped concrete and seals the pores so the build coat does not outgas pinholes. The body or build coat carries the film thickness and the color and is where most of the system's depth lives. The broadcast is the media, quartz aggregate or vinyl flake, thrown into the wet build coat for texture, slip, and thickness. The topcoat or sealer locks the media down and is the wear and chemical layer the floor actually presents to the world.

Skip the primer to save a coat and you trade it for pinholes and a weaker bond. Skip the topcoat over a broadcast and you leave sharp media exposed to wear off and a surface that holds dirt. The layers are not optional decoration. They are the system the manufacturer tested and warrants as a set.

Thickness sorts the systems. A thin-film or roll-coat system runs maybe 10 to 30 mils and suits light to moderate duty. A self-leveling system pours and spreads to roughly 1/16 to 1/4 inch for a smooth, jointless floor that takes heavy rolling loads. A mortar or troweled system, quartz or urethane cement broadcast into resin at 1/4 inch and up, is the heavy-duty answer for impact, thermal shock, and the worst wet-process abuse. Thicker is not automatically better. It is more material, more labor, and a heavier moisture and prep demand, so size the system to the service.

Mixing, ratio, and pot life

These are two-component products. You mix part A resin and part B hardener at the exact ratio on the label, by volume or by weight as the manufacturer states, and you do not eyeball it. Run rich or lean on the hardener and the resin cures soft, stays tacky, or never reaches its rated chemistry. Measure it. Mix the full kit, scrape the sides and bottom of the pail with a paddle, and mix until it is uniform with no streaks, because an unmixed band on the wall of the bucket goes onto the floor as a soft spot.

Some products call for an induction or sweat-in time, a few minutes after mixing before you pour, to let the components start reacting. Honor it when the data sheet asks for it. Then watch the clock, because pot life starts the instant A meets B.

Pot life is the working time before the mix is too thick to lay down. Two things shorten it hard. Heat speeds the reaction, so a hot slab or a hot day cuts your window, and the mass of mixed material in the pail builds its own heat as it reacts, so a full bucket left sitting will exotherm, smoke, and harden faster than the same resin spread thin on the floor. The discipline is to mix what the crew can place inside the window, pour it out of the pail and onto the floor right away rather than working out of the bucket, and never stretch a kit that is going off. Pot life figures on the data sheet are stated at a reference temperature, commonly around 73 degrees F, so adjust your batch size for the real conditions, not the lab.

Applying the coat: squeegee, roller, and the wet edge

You spread the build coat with a notched squeegee or a flat squeegee to lay down an even film at the target thickness, then back-roll it with a loop or shed-resistant roller to even it out and break the squeegee lines. The squeegee meters the material, the back-roll levels it. A self-leveling coat gets poured in ribbons and spread to gauge with a notched squeegee or gauge rake, then spiked-roller rolled to release air. The thickness target is a wet film number the crew checks with a wet film gauge as they go, because you cannot fix a thin coat after it cures.

Keep a wet edge. Resin that has started to gel will not blend into fresh material, so you work in continuous bays and keep a crew rhythm that always brings wet to wet. A break in the wet edge shows up as a ridge or a lap line in the cured floor. Plan the start point, the exits, and the bay sequence before you mix, so nobody paints themselves into a corner or steps onto green coating.

The recoat window between coats is where bond between layers is won or lost. Each coat has a minimum recoat time, often tack-free, and a maximum recoat time on the data sheet. Coat inside the window and the next layer bonds chemically to the one below. Miss the maximum and you have to abrade the surface to get a mechanical bond, because the cured film is no longer chemically open. On epoxy there is a second trap covered in the troubleshooting section, the amine blush, which can break the bond even inside the window if you do not deal with it.

Broadcasting media and slip resistance

Broadcasting is throwing media, quartz sand or vinyl flake, into the wet build coat so it embeds and stands up in the film. You broadcast to refusal when the system calls for it, which means you keep casting media until the surface will not take any more and looks dry, with no wet resin showing through. That fully loads the coat, builds thickness, and sets up the texture. The next day you scrape and sweep or blow off the loose, unbonded media before the topcoat goes on, or the topcoat locks down dust instead of a clean profile.

The texture you build is also the floor's slip resistance, and that is a safety call, not a finish preference. A smooth topcoat is fine for a dry, foot-traffic clean room and dangerous in a kitchen or a wash-down bay. For wet and process areas you broadcast a coarser aggregate or add a fine non-slip grit to the topcoat to keep grip when the floor is wet, oily, or soapy. There is no single mandated coating number. Many specs reference a dynamic coefficient of friction at or above 0.42, the tile-industry benchmark, but the project spec and the manufacturer govern the texture for the actual contaminant on that floor.

The trade-off is real and worth saying out loud. More aggressive texture grips better and cleans harder, because the same peaks that catch a boot also catch dirt and resist a mop. Match the texture to the worst realistic condition on that floor, then make sure the owner can actually clean what you built.

Why did my epoxy floor peel?

An epoxy floor peels because something broke the bond, and the cause is almost always one of a short list. Rank them by how often they actually bite, and you will find the failure most of the time before you ever blame the resin.

Moisture is first and by a wide margin. A slab driving vapor that nobody tested for builds pressure under the film and lifts it, showing up as blisters that turn into peeling sheets. Prep is second. A coating over laitance, an old curing compound, a sealer, or grinding dust never bonded to sound concrete in the first place, so it releases clean, often in big flat pieces with the bond-breaker visible on the back. Third is the recoat window and the amine blush. Epoxy hardener reacts with carbon dioxide and humidity at the surface to form a greasy amine carbamate film, the blush, and that film is a bond-breaker between coats. If you recoated over blush, or recoated past the maximum window without abrading, the new coat sits on a layer that will not hold.

The amine blush fix is specific and the order matters. You water-wash the blush off first, before any sanding, because if you sand a blushed surface you grind the greasy film down into the profile and make it worse. Wash, let it dry, then abrade if the recoat window has passed. The other two, moisture and prep, have no field fix after the fact. They are fixed by testing and prepping before the primer, which is the whole point of doing them first. The last common cause is the cold or damp install in the next section, coating a slab below the dew point so condensation got under the film.

What temperature do you need to install epoxy?

Most epoxy systems want the substrate and air above about 50 degrees F, with the working sweet spot commonly 60 to 85 degrees F, and the manufacturer's range governs the specific product. Below the minimum the resin thickens, cure slows or stalls, and a coat that looks placed never reaches its chemistry. Above the range your pot life and working time shrink and the coat can flash and roll up. Cold and hot both cost you, just in different ways.

The number that catches crews is dew point, not air temperature. The substrate has to stay at least 5 degrees F above the dew point through prep, application, and the early cure. Let the slab drop to or below the dew point and an invisible film of condensation forms on the concrete, the resin sits on water instead of on the slab, and you get fisheyes, craters, blisters, or a clean delamination later. This is a common coating rule for a reason. You measure surface temperature and dew point with a meter and you check it through the shift, especially early morning, late evening, and on a slab-on-grade that lags the air.

On a cold slab the move is to bring the space and the slab up to temperature and hold it through cure, not just warm the air for an hour before you start. On a slab near the dew point you wait, dehumidify, or warm the substrate above the air's dew point before you mix. Do not coat a cold or damp slab to make the schedule. That floor fails on the schedule's terms, not yours.

Cure and return to service

Cure runs in stages and so does return to service, and the times are temperature-driven. Tack-free and recoat come first, foot traffic next, then full mechanical and chemical cure last. The mistake is putting the floor back to full duty at the foot-traffic mark, before the chemistry has finished, and then watching it scuff or stain because the wear layer was not done curing.

Standard epoxy is roughly walkable in 12 to 24 hours at room temperature and reaches full chemical cure in several days, often cited around 7 days, before it should see aggressive chemicals or wash-down. Polyaspartic and MMA collapse those times, walkable in an hour or two and back to service same day or next, which is exactly why they get specified when downtime is the constraint. Every one of these stretches longer as the temperature drops, so a cold space is a slower return even with the same product.

Hold the floor off full service until the chemical cure is done, protect it from water, traffic, and dropped material during cure, and give the owner the real return-to-service schedule in writing. A floor rushed back early looks like a coating failure later, and it gets blamed on the coating when it was the calendar.

Coving, joints, and the details that fail first

The floor-to-wall joint is where a sanitary floor lives or dies, and the answer is an integral cove base. Instead of a square corner that traps water, food, and bacteria and is impossible to clean, you trowel a curved resin cove up the wall so the floor and wall become one continuous, washable surface with no crevice. Food and beverage and healthcare work usually requires it. Retail food code commonly calls for a coved base with at least a 3/8 inch radius running up the wall, often around 4 inches, with the exact dimension set by the authority and the project. Build the cove as part of the system, bonded and sealed into the floor, not caulked in as an afterthought.

Joints carry through the same logic as the repair section, now in the finished floor. Static cracks were filled rigid and disappear under the coating. Moving joints, the control and expansion joints, must be honored in the final surface. The common detail is to saw the joint back open through the cured coating and fill it with a flexible joint sealant or a backer-and-sealant detail, so the joint can still move without tearing the floor. Coat solid over a moving joint and the slab cracks the coating at the joint line on the first real thermal or shrinkage cycle.

Drains, thresholds, and equipment pads are the other details that fail first. Terminate the coating into a drain or a keyed edge so water cannot get under the film, and detail the transitions before the system goes down. Water always finds the weakest edge, so build the edges like they matter.

Inspection and QC

QC on a resinous floor is mostly verifying the things that fail it, in order, and writing them down. The inspector and the manufacturer's rep look at the same handful of records and readings, so produce them as you go rather than reconstructing them at closeout.

Check the moisture test record first, the F2170 RH or F1869 emission result against the manufacturer's limit, because a floor coated over a wet slab is a failure waiting on a date. Verify the surface profile against the specified ICRI CSP with the comparator chips, and confirm the slab was clean, not just rough. Confirm dry film thickness against the system spec with a wet film gauge during application and a thickness check after cure, since a thin floor wears through early. Pull-off adhesion is the bond proof, tested per ASTM D7234 for coatings on concrete, with the project acceptance number commonly written as a minimum tensile value or substrate failure rather than a glue-line release. And check for holidays and pinholes, the missed spots and the tiny voids that let liquid reach the slab, by eye on a smaller floor or with a holiday detector where a pinhole-free film is specified.

The record is the deliverable as much as the floor is. A clean floor with no test record is a floor the owner cannot defend the first time it is questioned.

• Confirm the moisture test result (F2170 RH or F1869 MVER) against the manufacturer's limit.
• Verify the surface profile against the specified ICRI CSP with comparator chips, and confirm cleanliness.
• Check wet film thickness during application and dry film thickness after cure against the system spec.
• Pull-off adhesion per ASTM D7234, against the project acceptance value.
• Inspect for holidays and pinholes by eye or with a holiday detector where specified.
• Confirm cove dimensions, joint details, and edge terminations match the spec.

ESD, food, and data center floors

Some floors do a job beyond wear and cleanability, and the resin is engineered for it. An electrostatic floor controls static so it does not discharge into electronics or ignite a hazard, built with conductive primers and a grounding grid tied to building ground. The two grades differ by resistance. A static-dissipative floor typically reads about 1 million to 1 billion ohms, and a conductive floor reads lower, roughly 25,000 to 1 million ohms, with the data center and electronics-assembly range commonly landing in the dissipative to low-conductive band. The grounding and the periodic resistance testing are part of the system, not extras, and the ESD topic carries its own depth on the electrical side.

Food and beverage floors push cleanability and chemical resistance to the front. They get the integral cove base, a coarse enough texture to stay safe under wet and greasy conditions, and often a urethane cement body that shrugs off thermal shock from steam cleaning and freezer-to-oven swings. Watch for USDA and FDA expectations on the system, which favor jointless, washable, coved surfaces with no joints to harbor bacteria.

Data center floors want a hard, dust-free, dimensionally stable surface under heavy point loads from racks and CRAC units, frequently with static control, and a finish that does not shed particulate into the air handling. In all three, the specialty performance rides on the same foundation as any other resinous floor. Test the moisture, prep to the profile, and build the system right, or the specialty floor fails like any other floor that skipped the basics.

Maintenance and warranty the owner inherits

A resinous floor is a wear system, and the owner inherits its upkeep the day you hand it over. The topcoat is the sacrificial layer. It takes the traffic, the chemicals, and the cleaning, and it wears thinnest in the drive lanes and at the doors. Maintained right, with the cleaners the manufacturer allows and a routine that matches the service, the floor goes years before it needs attention. Cleaned with the wrong chemical or neglected through a contamination spill, it dulls, stains, or etches early.

The smart long-term move is a topcoat recoat before the wear reaches the build coat and the color. Scuff-sand the worn topcoat, clean it, and lay a fresh wear layer, and you reset the floor for a fraction of a full replacement. Wait until the traffic has worn through the topcoat into the body coat and you are no longer recoating, you are rebuilding. Give the owner the recoat trigger in plain terms so they call before the floor is gone, not after.

Warranty follows the system and the documentation. Manufacturer warranties typically cover the material as an installed system, which means the moisture test, the prep, the profile, and the recoat windows all had to be done and recorded to keep the coverage alive. Read what the warranty actually requires before the job, install to it, and hand the owner the records and the maintenance schedule along with the floor.

What to document

The record is what answers the question when a section of floor lifts and someone asks whether the install was ever right. A fully documented floor gives you a warranty the manufacturer will honor. A floor with no record becomes your liability the first time a coating fails.

Capture it by area, because a big floor is not uniform and the failure will be local. For each area record the moisture test method and result against the limit, the ICRI CSP achieved, the system and the measured film thickness in mils, the adhesion pull-off result, and the conditions, temperature, dew point, and humidity, at the time of coating. Add the batch numbers, the dates, and who did the work. That table is the spine of the closeout package and the first thing the manufacturer's rep asks for on a claim.

Common mistakes

• Coating over a slab that was never moisture tested, then blaming the blisters on the resin.
• Acid etching, or skipping prep, instead of shot blasting or grinding to a clean ICRI profile.
• Leaving the original curing compound or a sealer on the slab so the coating bonds to a bond-breaker.
• Profiling to the wrong CSP for the film thickness, too smooth for a thick build or too rough under a thin coat.
• Eyeballing the A-to-B ratio, under-mixing the pail, or stretching a kit past its pot life.
• Recoating past the maximum window, or recoating over amine blush without water-washing it off first.
• Leaving a smooth topcoat on a wet or process floor with no slip aggregate.
• Coating a cold slab or a slab below the dew point to hold the schedule.
• Filling a moving joint solid under the coating so the slab cracks the floor at the joint line.

Field checklist

Standards and references

Concrete moisture testing runs on the ASTM methods. ASTM F2170 covers in-situ relative humidity by probe and ASTM F1869 covers the calcium chloride moisture vapor emission rate, while ASTM F710 frames preparing concrete to receive resilient and related floor coverings. The acceptance limits are not in those methods, they are set by the resin manufacturer and the project specification, so the test tells you the number and the data sheet tells you whether it passes.

Surface preparation and profile reference the International Concrete Repair Institute, which defines the CSP scale and the comparator chips and publishes the guidance on selecting and verifying surface profile, alongside the SSPC surface preparation work on the protective-coatings side. Pull-off adhesion on concrete is tested per ASTM D7234, with ASTM D4541 the related method on rigid substrates. The substrate-above-dew-point practice and the environmental conditions for coating application are general protective-coating practice and are reflected in coating-condition standards and the manufacturer's data sheet.

The controlling document on any resinous floor is the manufacturer's system data sheet. It governs the mix ratio, the pot life and recoat windows, the moisture and profile limits, the film thickness, and the cure schedule, and the warranty is written against it. Where the project specification is stricter, the spec wins. Cite the standard that controls the point, follow the manufacturer for the numbers, and confirm any code-driven requirement, such as a food-code cove detail, against the authority that has jurisdiction.

Units, terms, and conversions

Resinous flooring borrows terms from coatings, concrete, and chemistry, so the same floor reads differently across a spec, a data sheet, and a moisture report. Film thickness is given in mils, thousandths of an inch, where 1 mil is 0.001 inch and about 0.0254 mm, with heavier systems called out in fractions of an inch instead. Wet film thickness is what you check during application and dry film thickness, DFT, is what remains after the carrier flashes and the resin cures.

Moisture shows up two ways. Relative humidity from an F2170 probe is a percentage of the slab interior. Moisture vapor emission rate from an F1869 test is in pounds per 1000 square feet over 24 hours. They do not convert directly, because they measure different things, the slab interior versus the surface emission, which is part of why the RH test is trusted on questionable slabs.

Mil / DFT

A mil is 0.001 inch; dry film thickness is the cured coating thickness measured in mils

CSP

Concrete surface profile, the ICRI roughness scale from CSP 1 (smooth) to CSP 9 to 10 (coarse)

RH (ASTM F2170)

Relative humidity inside the slab, read by in-situ probe as a percentage

MVER (ASTM F1869)

Moisture vapor emission rate in pounds per 1000 square feet per 24 hours

Pot life

The working time after mixing A and B before the resin is too thick to place

Amine blush

A greasy carbamate film on curing epoxy that acts as a bond-breaker between coats

Broadcast to refusal

Casting media into a wet coat until it will absorb no more and the surface looks dry

Related tools

Calculators and readiness checks for this work

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FAQ

People also ask

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